{"id":3793,"date":"2017-07-07T14:25:44","date_gmt":"2017-07-07T14:25:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/77.104.138.207\/~mahogan9\/internationalcoffeefarms.com\/?p=3793"},"modified":"2017-07-07T14:25:44","modified_gmt":"2017-07-07T14:25:44","slug":"evaluate-cacao-chocolate","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/evaluate-cacao-chocolate\/","title":{"rendered":"Comment \u00e9valuer le cacao et le chocolat"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"row\">\n<div class=\"col-sm-12\">\n<div class=\"cover-wrap\">\n<div class=\"cover\">\n<div class=\"detail\">\n<div class=\"row\">\n<div class=\"col-sm-8\">\n<div class=\"meta-count\"><span class=\"i-category\"><span class=\"mh-cat-item\"><a class=\"mh-elcat-2011\" title=\"Cafe &amp; Coffee Owner\" href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/category\/cafe-owner\/\" rel=\"category noopener\" target=\"_blank\">CAFE &amp; COFFEE OWNER<\/a><\/span><span class=\"mh-cat-item\"><a class=\"mh-elcat-1796\" title=\"Coffee Culture\" href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/category\/coffee-culture\/\" rel=\"category noopener\" target=\"_blank\">COFFEE CULTURE<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<h1>How to Evaluate Cacao &amp; Chocolate<\/h1>\n<div class=\"meta-info\">, <time class=\"entry-date\" datetime=\"2017-06-21T06:00:53+00:00\">JUNE 21, 2017 <\/time><\/p>\n<div class=\"count-data\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"row\">\n<div class=\"col-sm-8\">\n<div class=\"main-content\">\n<div class=\"maha-crumbs\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/\" rel=\"v:url noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Home<\/a> <i class=\"tm-crumb-right\"><\/i> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/category\/cafe-owner\/\" rel=\"v:url noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Cafe &amp; Coffee Owner<\/a> <i class=\"tm-crumb-right\"><\/i> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/2017\/06\/evaluate-cacao-chocolate\/\" rel=\"v:url noopener\" target=\"_blank\">How to Evaluate Cacao &amp; Chocolate<\/a><\/div>\n<article id=\"post-22360\" class=\"main-content single-post-box\">\n<div class=\"text-content\">\n<div class=\"sharify-container\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"pf-content\">\n<p>Looking to improve your understanding of cacao and chocolate? This delicious food increases our happiness, is a common gift on dates, and was famously used as currency by the Aztecs.<\/p>\n<p>The US spent $18 billion on retail chocolate in 2015 \u2013 and while much of it may be poor-quality, there\u2019s a growing interest in high-quality cacao. So if you appreciate cacao and chocolate as much as you do coffee, there\u2019s no better time to start learning about it.<\/p>\n<p>Dr Carla Martin, Founder and Executive Director of the Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute (FCCI), agreed to talk to us about how the institute grades cacao and chocolate. Here\u2019s what we learnt.<\/p>\n<p><big><b>SEE ALSO:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/2017\/04\/cup-cascara-evaluate-quality\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">How to Cup Cascara &amp; Evaluate Quality<\/a><\/b><big><\/big><\/big><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-22362\" src=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/cocoa-452911_960_720-e1497997150843.jpg\" alt=\"Cacao\" width=\"640\" height=\"425\" \/><i>A producer harvests cacao. \u00a0<\/i><\/p>\n<h2><b>What Is Fine Cacao &amp; Chocolate?<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>Specialty coffee is clearly defined: it is 80+ points, as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/2017\/05\/q-grader-program\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">graded by a qualified Q Grader<\/a> in a rigorously controlled setting. Those 80 points can further be broken down into different categories.<\/p>\n<p>Fine cacao and chocolate, on the other hand, lack definitions. \u201cAt this point in time, the categories of fine cacao and chocolate are ill-defined,\u201d Dr Martin tells me. \u201cThere have been attempts at definitions from a variety of angles, though these have yet to be adopted widely by the specialty sector. As a scholar who studies the history and culture of fine cacao, I could go on at length about the influence of politics and power on these conversations.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>However, she tells me that there is some consensus over which bean qualities are good and bad.\u00a0\u201cFor example, there are widely agreed-upon attributes of bean quality, such as external and flavor defects in cacao, that impact the quality of final chocolate products,\u201d she explains.<\/p>\n<p>What\u2019s more, while the lack of clear definitions may make it hard to discuss quality \u2013 and therefore pricing \u2013 it also offers an opportunity. At this point in time, stakeholders can decide how they want to define fine cacao and chocolate.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cCacao producers have been central to the development of our sampling protocol and curriculum,\u201d Dr Martin tells me, \u201cespecially through interviews and research exploring their wants and needs. This is not a system based simply on communication of industry needs, though that is still important; it is a system based on the needs of all stakeholders. Ultimately, our course is about imparting knowledge and promoting wisdom and critical thinking, and about allowing everyone in the supply chain to become a part of conversations on the future of fine cacao and fine chocolate.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In addition to interviewing producers, the FCCI also worked with the SCA and Q graders.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-22373\" src=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/cocoa-824086_960_720-e1498019492797.jpg\" alt=\"cacao\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" \/><i>A bag of Criollo cacao ready for export.<\/i><\/p>\n<h2><b>What Do The FCCI Believe Cacao Graders Should Know?<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>The FCCI runs a three-day training course, the Cacao Grader Intensive course. This is not currently graded, although Dr Martin tells me the FCCI \u201ceventually plan to offer a certification course, in some ways modeled after the Q certification process in coffee\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Describing the current course as an \u201cintroductory\u201d one, she tells me it includes lectures on the history and culture of fine cacao and chocolate, the factors that affect quality (genetics and agronomy, post-harvest processing, storage and transport, chocolate-making), the science of flavour and sensory analysis, the supply chain, and ethics and transparency.<\/p>\n<p>It also involves hands-on training for:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The external evaluation of raw cacao<\/li>\n<li>Cut tests<\/li>\n<li>Cacao sample protocol and preparation<\/li>\n<li>Cacao sample organoleptic (sensory) evaluation<\/li>\n<li>Sensory analysis techniques, e.g. defect tasting, sensory deprivation, triangulation, calibration, and the sensory lexicon<\/li>\n<li>Evaluating chocolate liquor and finished chocolate products<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>And to prepare, students should \u201ccarefully read a number of key scholarly texts\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Let\u2019s take a look at how the FCCI recommend evaluating fine cacao and chocolate in more depth.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-22364\" src=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/batch_craft_20_6_2017_16_52_43_835-e1497997442161.jpg\" alt=\"cacao\" width=\"640\" height=\"640\" \/><i>A cacao pod and beans. Credit: <\/i><i>BATCH<\/i><\/p>\n<h2><b>Step 1: Cacao External Evaluation<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>When <a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/2016\/11\/cup-coffee-improve-palate\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">cupping coffee<\/a>, the first step will be analysis of dry grounds. But with cacao, the FCCI begin with an analysis of the exterior of the beans.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe look for basic attributes, e.g. bean count per 100g, moisture content percentage, qualitative bean size, and detritus percentage by weight,\u201d Dr Martin explains, \u201cand external <a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/2017\/01\/7-green-bean-defects-roasters-producers-need-recognise\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">defects<\/a> visible on the cacao, e.g. black, severely mouldy, germinated, insect damaged, clumped, or cut.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>And just like in coffee, this information is useful for both buyers and producers.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cFor FCCI\u2019s purposes, we record this information as a first step in evaluating a sample. For cacao producers especially, this provides them with important information so that they might figuratively rewind and identify when and how defects entered the sample through processing.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Then, once you\u2019ve evaluated the exterior of the cacao bean, it\u2019s time to analyse the interior.<\/p>\n<h2><b>Step 2: Cacao Cut Tests<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>\u201cSimply put, a cut test involves taking raw cacao beans and cutting them in half lengthwise to view their insides,\u201d Dr Martin tells me. \u201cThis allows an evaluator to then determine the level of fermentation and physical defects in the cacao.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Just like with coffee, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/2016\/08\/slow-naturals-controlled-fermentation-brazil-coffee\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">fermentation<\/a> is a big deal in cacao and chocolate. \u201cFermentation level is a classic hot button issue for many in the industry, and debates on its links to quality are ongoing.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>While it\u2019s unclear exactly what impact fermentation has, Dr. Martin says that it\u2019s important fine chocolate makers and producers can do cut tests. They should gain as much knowledge as possible about the product. What\u2019s more, they can then communicate this information to other people using the same system of analysis.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe chance to draw inferences about cacao based on sight remains invaluable to cacao producers, and cut tests are legally required throughout the C market [the Cocoa market] as the primary quality evaluation metric,\u201d she tells me.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhen we teach at origin, producers are most often familiar with cut tests practically, but want the chance to discuss their value intellectually, to practice calibration, and to think together about how cut tests (and particularly education on cut tests) might fit into their quality control strategies at the cooperative level.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-22365\" src=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/chococonspiracy_20_6_2017_16_20_56_727-e1497997489542.jpg\" alt=\"cacao\" width=\"640\" height=\"640\" \/><i>Cut test of cacao beans.\u00a0<\/i><i>Credit: <\/i><i>The Chocolate Conspiracy<\/i><\/p>\n<h2><b>Step 3: Tasting Samples<\/b><\/h2>\n<p>Next, it\u2019s time to start tasting the cacao. Dr Martin tells me that there are many methods, and \u201cmost often involve making chocolate liquor or a finished chocolate product\u201d. The FCCI, however, use a \u201csimple, repeatable, accessible\u201d option.<\/p>\n<p>I ask how this is done, and she breaks it down for me. First, it\u2019s important to randomly select 30\u201350 raw cacao beans from a sample. Next, the beans need to be deshelled; at the FCCI, they heat them in a popcorn popper for \u201cabout 45 seconds\u201d beforehand to puff the shells without roasting. The beans should then be ground in a blade coffee grinder.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cParticipants then taste 1 teaspoon of the grounds and evaluate the sample for intensity of acidity, bitterness, and astringency,\u201d Dr Martin says, \u201cas well as for a variety of aromas (e.g. cocoa, fruit, herbal, floral, nutty, spicy, caramel) and defects (e.g. hammy, smoky, mouldy, putrid\/garbage, rancid\/cheesy, medicinal\/phenolic).\u201d<\/p>\n<p>While Dr Martin\u2019s process may be, as she says, \u201csimple\u201d, she also tells me there are a variety of ways they work to improve accuracy. This includes triangulation, or selecting the odd one in a group of three, and sensory deprivation.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIn our course, sensory deprivation typically involves removing access to one sense,\u201d Dr Martin explains. \u201cThis means that participants taste a sample without looking at it, because colour can influence perception, or that they taste a sample while blocking the nose to challenge themselves to identify tastes over aromas.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-22366\" src=\"https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/sirenechocolate_20_6_2017_16_39_49_48-e1497997538981.jpg\" alt=\"cacao\" width=\"640\" height=\"640\" \/><i>Cacao beans vary in colour. <\/i><i>Credit: Sirene Chocolate<\/i><\/p>\n<p>Improving your sensory analysis of a product merely increases your enjoyment of it \u2013 whether it\u2019s coffee, wine, or fine chocolate you\u2019re trying. And while cacao and chocolate analysis might be less evolved than coffee analysis, these developing systems are signs of an exciting future for chocolate lovers.<\/p>\n<p>Written by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.twitter.com\/tanya_hkn\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tanya Newton<\/a>. Extracted from:\u00a0https:\/\/www.perfectdailygrind.com.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>CAFE &amp; COFFEE OWNERCOFFEE CULTURE How to Evaluate Cacao &amp; Chocolate , JUNE 21, 2017 Home Cafe &amp; Coffee Owner How to Evaluate Cacao &amp; Chocolate Looking to improve your understanding of cacao and chocolate? This delicious food increases our happiness, is a common gift on dates, and was famously used as currency by the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":3794,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[48],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3793","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3793","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/11"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3793"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3793\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3795,"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3793\/revisions\/3795"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3794"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3793"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3793"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cuatrocaminoscoffee.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3793"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}